Rome - the most incredible city in the universe. The capital of an ancient empire is also not short of grand hotels. It has palaces, private courtyards, rooftop terraces, hidden gardens, marble bathrooms, discreet entrances, and that particular Roman talent for making even the most ordinary afternoon feel theatrical.

On my recent trip to Rome, I visited — and in one case stayed at — several of the city’s most talked-about ultra-luxury hotels. Some are already Roman institutions. Some are newer arrivals trying to redefine the market. And a few are quietly doing something very special.